31 May 2010



Hong Kong Travel Journal - Cheung Chau Bun Festival


snaking lines at the ferry terminal to Cheung Chau because it's a public holiday (the Buddha's birthday), and everyone wants to get there for the Bun Festival which falls on the same day

spotting the bun mountains (包山) as the ferry approaches the pier

the island was awash with psychedelic billboards, flags and banners

buns with the Chinese characters 平安 (safety) stamped on them, and that is exactly what they are believed to bring

biting into a custard-filled one

narrow lanes are lined with chairs and stools, and people scramble for prime seats to catch the street procession which will take place in the afternoon

the parade begins and will eventually wind its way to the Pak Tai Temple grounds where the bun mountains are





the parade's hottest draws are these kids, decked out in traditional costumes or as mythical characters, looking as though they are balancing precariously on the tips of swords, vases and columns of fragile items!

look, he's barely standing on the tip of a paper umbrella

and she, on a hoop, spear and lotus bed!

the little boy appears to be holding her aloft with nary an effort

everyone shouts and waves excitedly to get the kids' attention because they are just too darn cute



and the trick behind the illusion: they are perched on steel frames (although I still can't quite figure out exactly how...)









the riot of sounds and colours, plus the physical feats made for a really intense and fantastic experience

after the parade, we went hiking around the island, chilled out at a beach, and queued for hours to catch the bun-snatching race

at midnight, participants climb to the top of the bun mountain and fill their rucksacks with as many buns as they can within a stipulated time

a flurry of limbs and buns flying everywhere (the buns on this mountain are plastic; those on the three mountains behind are real, and are also removed at midnight for distribution the next day)







4:46 PM;

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I lean my head slowly to the side, reflect on the camellia on the moss of the temple, reflect on a cup of tea, while outside the wind is rustling the foliage, the forward rush of life is crystallised in a brilliant jewel of a moment that knows neither plans nor future, human destiny is rescued from the pale succession of days, glows with light at last and, surpassing time, warms my tranquil heart.

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